Hey everyone, Livestock Animal Transport Trailer
It’s Jake here from your go-to livestock transport trailer supplier—you know, the one that actually gets how much time, cash, and headaches go into moving animals safely and reliably. I chat with so many owners, farm managers, and small haulers every week, and one question keeps popping up more than I expected: “Jake, when my trailer’s not in use, what do I even need to do to make sure it doesn’t fall apart, cost me a fortune in repairs, or leave me stranded when I need it next?” Fair question, right? You drop tens of thousands on a trailer, so why would you risk ruining it between hauls?
Most people think storage is just “stick it in a barn and forget it.” Nah, that’s how you get rust, broken latches, rotted wood, or a dead battery when you’re rushing to move 20 head of cattle or a truckload of sheep at 5 a.m. I’ve seen it happen too many times—guys whose fancy gooseneck trailer turned into a rust bucket in one winter because they parked it out in the mud with the doors propped open. So today, let’s break down exactly what you need to do when your livestock transport trailer’s not on the road, no fancy jargon, just real stuff we actually do at our shop.
First up: Location, location, location. This isn’t just real estate for houses—your trailer’s storage spot is make-or-break. Let’s start with the basics: ground. Never, ever park it straight on dirt or grass for more than a day or two. Why? Moisture seeps up from the soil, even if it’s covered, and that’s how rust starts eating at the frame, especially the undercarriage and wheel wells. We use concrete pads or compacted crushed limestone at our shop for inventory storage, and that’s the move for you too. If you don’t have a concrete pad, grab a few heavy-duty, non-wood skids (we sell these at the shop, FYI—they’re cheap and worth every penny) and set the trailer’s frame on them, not just the tires. That keeps the bottom of the frame off damp ground.
Then, shelter is huge. I know not everyone has a heated barn or a big pole shed, but if you can, get it under cover. Direct sunlight is the silent enemy of livestock trailers—UV rays bake the paint, crack the rubber seals on the stalls, and fade the plastic window panels so they’re brittle and easy to snap when you need them. And if you’re in a rainy or snowy climate? Leaving it exposed means snow melting on the roof seeps through tiny gaps, or rain collects in the wheel wells and sits there for weeks. If you can’t get a full barn, even a portable carport (the heavy-duty kind, not the flimsy party ones) works. Just make sure it’s tall enough to clear the trailer’s roof and doesn’t sag where water can pool on top—pooled water is a quick way to rust on the roof.
Now, the undercarriage is where most people miss the mark, and that’s where 70% of trailer storage damage happens. When your trailer’s not moving, all that road grime, manure splatter, and salt (if you’re in a cold climate that uses ice melt) just sits there, eating through metal. First step before storing: deep clean the entire undercarriage, wheel hubs, and frame. I’m not talking a quick rinse with the garden hose—use a pressure washer (the 2000 PSI kind works, nothing too crazy) and a mild, pH-neutral detergent. Scrub the wheel wells with a stiff bristle brush to get caked-on manure, and don’t forget the brake drums and axle housings—salt on those will turn them to rust in months. After you rinse it, let it air dry completely. Moisture + metal = rust, so don’t skip that part.
Once it’s dry, hit all the metal surfaces (frame, wheel hubs, bolts) with a light coat of rust inhibitor. We use a silicone-based spray at the shop because it’s easy to apply, doesn’t leave a greasy mess that attracts dirt, and works in both hot and cold weather. Pro tip: get all the bolts, especially the wheel lug nuts and hitch pins—rusted lug nuts are a nightmare when you’re trying to change a tire on the side of the road. If you have a wooden floor (some of our custom trailers use treated pine for heavier livestock), let that dry for a few days, then spray it with a wood preservative that’s safe for animals when you do use it. Don’t use regular paint or anything toxic—you don’t want that getting on your cows’ hooves or sheep’s wool.
Next up: tires and suspension. Tires are another big one people neglect. If your trailer’s sitting with the same tires at the same pressure for months, they’ll develop flat spots. That means when you hook it up next time, the ride’s bumpy, and the trailer might pull weird, which is bad for both the trailer and the animals inside. What to do? First, set the tire pressure to the recommended level (check the sticker on the door frame, not the tire sidewall—sidewalls are for max pressure, not optimal for your loaded trailer). Then, either park the trailer on jack stands (only for single trailers, not goosenecks with too much tongue weight) or move it a few feet every two weeks—even just push it back and forth in your storage spot. If you can’t move it, jack stands work, but make sure they’re rated for the trailer’s total weight (don’t use those little car jack stands—they’ll collapse and bend the frame). Also, cover the tires with a heavy-duty tire cover or a tarp to keep UV rays from cracking the rubber. I see so many trailer owners with dry, cracked tires that are totally unsafe to haul on, and that’s 100% preventable.
Suspension parts—springs, shackles, U-bolts—those need attention too. Same as the undercarriage: if you didn’t clean all the grime off before storing, it’ll seize up on you. If your shackles are stuck, when you go to use the trailer, it won’t ride smoothly, and that can cause swaying when you’re hauling. Once you’ve cleaned them, spray them with a light lubricant (not WD-40, it dries out too fast—we use a white lithium grease that lasts) and that keeps them moving freely.
Now, the inside of the trailer—you can’t forget this, because you don’t want a moldy, smelly mess when you’re loading up. First, after your last haul of the season or month, strip out all the bedding—straw, sawdust, whatever you use—and sweep every corner. Then, wipe down the metal stalls, walls, and rails with a mild disinfectant that’s safe for animals (bleach is fine if you rinse it well, but there are better ones like that Farm & Fleet brand we use) to kill any bacteria or parasites that could grow if it’s damp. If there are any spills or manure stains, scrub those off too, because they attract rodents, and trust me, you don’t want mice or rats living in your trailer—they’ll chew through wiring, gnaw at wood, and leave droppings everywhere.
Then, open all the vents and doors completely. Trapping moisture inside is how mold and mildew grow, especially in warm, humid climates. Even if it’s a little cold outside, cracking all the exits open for a week after storing will let all the dampness out. If you have removable dividers, take those out and store them somewhere dry so they don’t warp or get moldy. For the plastic window panels (if you have them), wipe them down with a mild soap and water, then dry them, and if you’re storing during cold weather, maybe cover them with a blanket or tarp to keep them from getting cracked by frost.
Wait, what about the hitch and electrical? So many people ignore the hitch wiring, and then you go to hook up to your truck, and the lights don’t work, or the breakaway system’s dead. Let’s start with the hitch: after every haul, grease the ball and the hitch coupler with a high-quality hitch grease. If you’re storing it, put a protective cover on the coupler to keep dirt and moisture out. For the electrical wiring—those 7-way plugs and all the wires—unplug them from your truck, wrap the ends in a plastic bag or electrical tape to keep water and dust out, and tuck them somewhere they won’t get stepped on or chewed by rodents. If your trailer has a breakaway battery (the small one that keeps the brakes working if you get separated from your truck), don’t just leave it on the shelf dead. Disconnect it, charge it fully, and store it in a cool, dry spot (not inside the hot trailer) and charge it every 30 days. Dead breakaway batteries are a huge safety hazard—if you lose the trailer, the brakes won’t activate, and that’s a disaster.
Special cases, too—like if you’re storing during the winter, or in a really hot, humid climate. If you’re in a place that gets freezing temperatures, make sure all the water lines (if you have a water tank for animals) are completely drained. Frozen lines will burst, and you’ll have a leak that sits there for months. If you’re in a super hot, dry area, maybe use a dehumidifier inside the trailer for the first week or two of storage to keep humidity low and prevent mold.
Oh, and one quick tip: do a quick walkthrough every 2 weeks when the trailer’s in storage. Check for any leaks, rust spots, or signs of rodents. I had a customer last year who noticed a tiny rust spot on the undercarriage when he was checking, and fixed it before it turned into a hole that cost $800 to repair. That 10-minute walkthrough saves you thousands in the long run.
Let me wrap this up real quick—no fancy rules, just common sense stuff: park on hard, damp-proof ground, keep it covered, clean and rust-proof the undercarriage, care for tires and suspension, clean the inside and ventilate, maintain the hitch and battery, and do quick checks regularly.
If you’re in the market for a new trailer, or you want to upgrade your current one so storage is less of a headache, we’re here to help. We build all our trailers with storage in mind too—like extra rust-resistant coatings on the undercarriage, vent systems that make it easy to air out, and easy-access jack stands so you don’t have to deal with flimsy car stands. Hit us up whenever you want to chat specs, ask more questions about storage, or get a quote for a trailer that fits your needs. Don’t wait until your old one’s falling apart to replace it—reach out today.
Special Trailer References:
- National Association of Agricultural Engineers. (2021). Best Management Practices for Livestock Trailer Storage and Maintenance.
- Livestock Transport Association. (2022). Seasonal Storage Guidelines for Commercial Animal Hauling Trailers.
- American Farm Bureau Federation. (2020). Preventive Maintenance for Agricultural Equipment: Trailers and Storage.
- Rust Prevention Association. (2021). Corrosion Control for Metal Livestock Trailer Components.
Shandong Tengyun Special Vehicle Manufacturing Co., Ltd.
Shandong Tengyun Special Vehicle Manufacturing Co., Ltd. is well-known as one of the leading livestock animal transport trailer manufacturers and suppliers in China. Please feel free to buy high quality livestock animal transport trailer made in China here from our factory. For price consultation, contact us.
Address: Middle Section of Dongfeng Road, Liangshan Street Office, Liangshan County, Jining City, Shandong Province
E-mail: 15634517777@163.com
WebSite: https://www.tengyuntruck.com/
